My mom was a waitress and my dad was a plumber who worked for the City of San Clemente fixing mains breaks so not too glamorous.
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My dad got me a huge board when I was little. He loves to surf. He suited me up and sent me out on this huge wave. I went under and when I came out and the board hit me in the face. So I said I never wanted to do this again. I stayed away until I was 13.
